Gareh Kelisa – The Black Church The hot Iranian summers and the old Mercedes bus without air conditioning are to blame for me coming sweaty after a few hours of driving from Tabriz to Maku. I am mostly to blame for not taking into account that the bus ticket has to be bought in advance. The seats were sold out, I waited until the last. In the meantime, I picked up some curious glances from the passengers. The driver took pity on me, probably the only foreigner who had taken his bus after a long time, and sat me down